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Special Reports
Sourcing Textiles and Apparel from India

Published in March 1992

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Table of Contents
List of Tables
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List of Tables   

  • 1.1 Employment in the Indian Industry by sector, 1986/87-1988/89
  • 1.2 Change in India's manufacturing output, 1985/86-1990/90
  • 1.3 Principal exports from India, 1986/87-1989-90
  • 1.4 Principal imports into India, 1986/87-1989/90
  • 1.5 Exchange rates of the rupee against selected major world currencies, 1980/81-1990/91
  • 2.1 Structure of organised textile production in India, 1987/88
  • 2.2 Cost components of gross output in India's organised textile and clothing industries, 1981/82-1987/88
  • 2.3 Capital and value added in India's organised textile and clothing industries, 1981/82-1987/88
  • 2.4 Employment and production in India's organised textile and clothing industries, 1981/82-1987/88
  • 2.5 Regional distribution of India's organised textile and clothing industries, 1987/88
  • 2.6 Regional distribution of India's cotton textile industry, 1987/88
  • 2.7 Regional distribution of India's non-cotton textile industry, 1987/88
  • 2.8 Regional distribution of India's textile products industry, 1987/88
  • 2.9 Output shares of the three most important states in India's organised textile sector, 1987/88
  • 2.10 Capacity growth in India's organised mill sector, 1951-91
  • 2.11 Installed capacity in the Indian cotton mill industry, 1956-90
  • 2.12 Share of the decentralised sector in India's woven cloth production, 1951-89
  • 2.13 Woven cloth production in India by sector, 1978/79-1989/90
  • 3.1 Indian cloth consumption per head, 1972-89
  • 3.2 Average growth rates of India's textile consumption per head, 1972-87
  • 3.3 Indian cloth consumption per head by income group, 1987 and 1989
  • 3.4 Indian textile consumption per head by fibre type, 1987-89
  • 3.5 Indian textile consumption per head by fabric type, 1987-88
  • 3.6 Distribution of Indian households according to total expenditure on textiles in urban and rural areas, 1987-88
  • 3.7 Distribution of Indian households showing nil purchases of textiles made from specific fibre types, 1987-88
  • 4.1 Fibre and yarn profile of the Indian textile industry, 1961-89
  • 4.2 Fibre composition in Indian fabric production by sector, 1981/82-1989/90
  • 4.3 Indian fibre production, 1980/81-1989/90
  • 4.4 Indian cotton production, cultivation and yield, 1970/71-1988/89
  • 4.5 Estimates of cotton production, 1989/90
  • 4.6 Indian exports of raw cotton, 1990
  • 4.7 International cotton yield comparisons, 1988/89
  • 4.8 Cotton production and consumption forecasts, 1989/90-1994/95
  • 4.9 World production of extra-fine cotton, 1986-91
  • 4.10 Varieties of Indian Cotton, 1986/87-1987/88
  • 4.11 Raw Silk production in India, 1985/86-1994/95
  • 4.12 Wool consumption in India, 1987/88
  • 4.13 Raw wool production in India, 1979/80-1990/91
  • 4.14 Production of man-made fibres and yarns in India, 1970/71-1988/89
  • 4.15 Projected fibre demand in India, 1989/90-1994/95
  • 4.16 man-made fibre production and capacities in India, 1989
  • 4.17 Projected man-made fibre and filament supply in India, 1994/95
  • 4.18 Installed and projected man-made fibre capacities in India by manufacturer, 1990
  • 4.19 Indian manufacturers of raw materials for the man-made fibre industry, 1988
  • 5.1 India's exports of textiles and apparel, 1985/86-1994/95
  • 5.2 Textile export promotion councils, 1991
  • 5.3 Indian imports of man-made fibres and filaments, 1984/85-1989/90
  • 5.4 Imports into India of raw wool and woollen rags, 1985/86-1988/89
  • 6.1 Capacity and employment in India's textile mill sector, 1961-90
  • 6.2 International spinning and weaving capacities, 1989-90
  • 6.3 Yarn production by India's mill sector, 1971-89
  • 6.4 Production of woven fabric by India's mill sector, 1981/82-1990/91
  • 6.5 Fibre consumption by India's mill sector, 1971-89
  • 6.6 Distribution by state of installed capacity in India's textile mills, as at Mar 31, 1989
  • 6.7 Capacity in India's public sector mills, 1988
  • 6.8 Losses incurred by India's National Textile Corporation, 1980/81-1990/91
  • 6.9 Yarn and fabric sold in the market by India's National Textile Corporation, 1988
  • 6.10 Production by India's cooperative spinning mills, 1984/85-1988/89
  • 6.11 Capacity of cooperative spinning mills by state, 1988
  • 6.12 Number of operatives employed in Indian spinning mills, 1987
  • 6.13 Cost structure of India's spinning mills, 1974-86
  • 6.14 Variation of costs according to product mix in India's spinning mills, 1986
  • 6.15 Cost structure in India's composite mills, 1974-86
  • 6.16 Cost per equivalent loom shift in India's composite mills, 1986
  • 6.17 Cost structure of spinning and composite mills as a percentage of production value, 1985-86
  • 6.18 Cost escalation in the Bombay mills, 1970 and 1985
  • 6.19 Relative shares of cost components in the Bombay mills, 1985
  • 7.1 Capacity and employment affected by Indian mill closures, 1981-90
  • 7.2 Outstanding bank credit held by sick mills in the Indian textile industry, 1978-87
  • 7.3 Indian mill closures by reason and ownership pattern, as at Jan 1989
  • 7.4 Profitability ratios: Indian cotton textile industry compared with all industries, 1965/66-1986/87
  • 7.5 Sanction and disbursement in India of textile modernisation funds by state, 1990
  • 7.6 India's textile modernisation fund scheme: sanctions and disbursements, Mar 31, 1990
  • 7.7 India's NTC restructuring plan: projected production and profitability, 1990/91-1994/95
  • 8.1 Production and capacity utilisation in India's textile machinery industry, 1981/82-1988/89
  • 8.2 Major types of textile machinery produced in India, 1987-89
  • 8.3 manufacturers in India of textile machinery, 1990
  • 8.4 Manufactures in India of machinery for the art silk industry, 1990
  • 8.5 Manufacturers in India of textile testing and control equipment, 1990
  • 8.6 Manufacturers in India of textile machinery accessories and spares, 1990
  • 9.1 Structure of India's textile exports by product category, 1985/86-1990/91
  • 9.2 India's exports of cotton textiles by main product category, 1985-89
  • 9.3 Regional destinations of India's cotton textile exports, 1985-89
  • 9.4 Leading 10 markets for India's cotton textile exports, 1985-89
  • 9.5 Permitted cotton yarn shipments from India by count, 1987-89
  • 9.6 Mills and exports firms in India which have shipped cotton yarn under advance licence during 1990
  • 9.7 Production and market availability of Indian Cotton yarn, 1988/89
  • 9.8 Capacity of Indian cotton yarn producing mills and their export orientation, 1988-89
  • 9.9 Major importers of Indian cotton yarns, 1987-90
  • 9.10 Indian cotton yarn shipments to the UK, Italy and Hong Kong, 1990
  • 9.11 Major varieties of cotton piece goods exported from India, 1987-90
  • 9.12 Ten leading markets for Indian cotton piece goods, 1985-90
  • 9.13 Major varieties of cotton made-ups exported from India, 1987-90
  • 9.14 Ten leading markets for India's exports of cotton made-ups, 1985-90
  • 9.15 Exports of man-made textiles from India, 1980/81-1989/90
  • 9.16 Major varieties of man-made fabrics exported from India, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 9.17 Ten leading markets for India's man-made textiles, 1984/85-1989/90
  • 10.1 Cloth production targets, 1984/85-1994/95
  • 10.2 Application for registration of authorised existing, unauthorised existing and proposed new Powerloom units, May 1, 1990
  • 10.3 Main features of Powerloom weaving in Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and West Bengal, Jun 1987
  • 10.4 main features of Powerloom weaving in Maharashtra, Jan 1987
  • 10.5 Main features of Powerloom weaving in Haryana, Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, Jun 1987
  • 10.6 Main Features of Powerloom weaving in Tamil Nadu, Pondicherry, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, Jun 1987
  • 10.7 Main features of processing activity in Gujarat, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, Jun 1987
  • 10.8 Estimates of aggregate Powerloom weaving production, Jun 1987
  • 10.9 Powerloom service centres, 1989
  • 10.10 Weaving units in the organised sector, 1989
  • 10.11 Growth of Powerlooms in Surat, 1910-83
  • 10.12 Distribution of production units in Surat-udhna according to number of installed looms, 1981
  • 10.13 Distribution of production units in Surat-Udhna according to number of installed Powerlooms, 1984
  • 10.14 Distribution of production units in Surat-Udhna according to number of installed looms, 1984
  • 10.15 Comparative weaving costs by sector, 1985
  • 10.16 Comparative cost of processed fabrics in relation to the mill sector, 1985
  • 10.17 Share or mills and Powerlooms in exports of cotton piece goods and made-ups, 1985-89
  • 11.1 Numbers of handlooms installed in India by type, 1987/88
  • 11.2 Productivity and output in major handloom textile producing states, 1987/88
  • 11.3 Domestic looms in India's north eastern states, 1987/88
  • 11.4 Distribution of full time handloom weavers by type of organisation in India's 15 major states, 1987/88
  • 11.5 Handloom product profile in the 15 major producer states, 1987/88
  • 11.6 Profile of India's handloom sector by fibre type, 1987/88
  • 11.7 Breakdown of India's handloom export production by state and fibre type, 1987/88
  • 11.8 India's handloom exports by product group, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 11.9 Exports of Indian cotton handloom made-ups by major product category, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 11.10 Ten leading markets for Indian cotton handloom made-ups, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 11.11 Exports of major Indian cotton handloom fabrics, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 11.12 Ten leading markets for Indian cotton handloom fabrics, 1985/86-`989/90
  • 11.13 Major varieties of silk goods exported from India, 1980/81-1989/90
  • 11.14 Exports of Indian silk goods by region, 1989/90
  • 11.15 Major markets for Indian silk goods, 1985/86-1989/90
  • 12.1 Regional dispersion of India's apparel industry, 1990
  • 12.2 Machines installed in India's apparel industry, 1990
  • 12.3 Origin of Indian apparel exports by region, 1981-90
  • 12.4 Regional dispersion of registered apparel exporters in India, 1986 and 1990
  • 12.5 Cost structure of Indian apparel production, 1987/88
  • 12.6 Number of machines in Indian apparel firms, 1987/88
  • 12.7 Value of installed machines in Indian apparel firms, 1987/88
  • 12.8 Productivity comparison among Indian apparel firms: manual and power machines, 1987/88
  • 12.9 Indian apparel exports, 1980-90
  • 12.10 Destinations of India's apparel exports, 1980-90
  • 12.11 Indian apparel exports to the EC, 1985-90
  • 12.12 Shares of quota markets in India's exports of the main apparel categories, 1980-90
  • 12.13 Shares of Indian apparel exports by fibre type, 1981-90
  • 12.14 Shares of Indian apparel exports by fabric type, 1986-90
  • 12.15 Major buying agents in India and their customers, 1991
  • 13.1 EC apparel imports from India, leading categories, 1977-90
  • 13.2 EC's leading clothing suppliers, 1982-89
  • 13.3 EC quota utilisation: T-shirts (category 4), 1989
  • 13.4 EC quota utilisation: pullovers (category 5), 1989
  • 13.5 EC quota utilisation: trousers (category 6), 1989
  • 13.6 EC quota utilisation: blouses (category 7), 1989
  • 13.7 EC quota utilisation: shirts (category 7), 1989
  • 13.8 EC quota utilisation: women's overcoats (category 15), 1989
  • 13.9 EC quota utilisation: dresses (category 26), 1989
  • 13.10 EC quota utilisation: skirts (category 27), 1989
  • 13.11 EC quota utilisation: suits (category 29), 1989
  • 13.12 US imports from India of major apparel items, 1989-90
  • 13.13 India's shares of US imports of man-made fibre apparel, 1989
  • 13.14 Leading suppliers of apparel to Sweden, 1983-90
  • 13.15 Leading suppliers of woven apparel to Sweden, 1983-90
  • 13.16 Leading suppliers of knitwear to Sweden, 1983-90
  • 14.1 Main features of textile and clothing bilateral agreements signed by India, valid until the end of 1991
  • 14.2 Comparative treatment of handloom products and "India items" under bilateral agreements signed by India, 1991
  • 14.3 US quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.4 EC quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.5 Finland's quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.6 Canada's quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.7 Sweden's quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.8 Austria's quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.9 Norway's quota levels and utilisation rates under MFA 1V, 1987-91
  • 14.10 Aggregate utilisation of India's quotas by markets, 1980-90
  • 14.11 Quota allocation shares, 1981-93
  • 14.12 Leading suppliers of textiles and clothing to the USA, 1982.89
  • 14.13 Leading suppliers of textiles and clothing to the EC, 1982-89
  • 14.14 Composition of Indian textile imports into the EC, 1977-90
  • 14.15 Composition of minor categories in Indian textiles imports into the EC, 1987-90
  • A.1 Leading suppliers of T-shirts (category 4) to the EC, 1983-90
  • A.2 Leading suppliers to the EC of pullovers (category 5), 1983-90
  • A.3 Leading suppliers to the EC of trousers (category 6), 1983-90
  • A.4 Leading suppliers to the EC of blouses (category 7), 1983-90
  • A.5 Leading suppliers to the EC of shirts (category 8), 1983-90
  • A.6 Leading suppliers to the EC of women's overcoats (category 15), 1983-90
  • A.7 Leading suppliers to the EC of dresses (category 26), 1983-90
  • A.8 Leading suppliers to the EC of skirts (category 27), 1983-90
  • A.9 Leading suppliers to the EC of suits (category 29), 1983-90
  • A.10 EC apparel imports from India against basket levels, minor categories, 1987-90
  • A.11 Leading suppliers to the USA of women's, girls' and infants' cotton coats (category 335), 1983-90
  • A.12 Leading suppliers to the USA of cotton dresses (category 336), 1983-90
  • A.13 Leading suppliers to the USA of men's and boys' cotton knitted shirts (category 338), 1983-90
  • A.14 Leading suppliers to the USA of women's, girls' and infants' cotton knitted shirts (category 339), 1983-90
  • A.15 Leading suppliers to the USA of men's and boys' cotton non-knitted shirts (category 340), 1983-90
  • A.16 Leading suppliers to the USA of women's, girls' and infants' cotton non knitted shirts (category 341), 1983-90
  • A.17 Leading suppliers to the USA of cotton skirts (category 342), 1983-90
  • A.18 Leading suppliers to the USA of man-made fibre skirts (category 642), 1983-90
  • A.19 Leading suppliers to the USA of men's and boys' cotton trousers (category 347), 1983-90
  • A.20 Leading suppliers to the USA of women's, girls' and infants' cotton trousers (category 348), 1983-90
  • A.21 Leading suppliers to the USA of other cotton apparel (category 359), 1983-90
  • A.22 Leading suppliers to Norway of woven jackets and anoraks etc, 1985-90
  • A.23 Leading suppliers to Norway of trousers, 1985-90
  • A.24 Leading suppliers to Norway of knitted shirts and blouses, 1985-90
  • A.25 Leading suppliers to Norway of knitted undergarments, 1985-90
  • A.26 Leading suppliers to Norway of shirts, 1985-90
  • A.27 Leading suppliers to Norway of knitwear, 1985-90
  • A.28 Leading suppliers to Norway of woven blouses, 1985-90
  • A.29 Leading suppliers to Japan of women's and girls' cotton dresses, 1983-90
  • A.30 Leading suppliers to Japan of women's and girls' cotton blouses, 1983-90
  • A.31 Leading suppliers to Japan of men's and boys' cotton shirts, 1983-90
  • A.32 Leading suppliers to Japan of women's and girls' cotton ensembles, 1983-90
  • A.33 Leading suppliers to Japan of cotton T-shirts, 1983-90
  • A.34 Leading suppliers to Japan of women's and girls' cotton skirts and divided skirts, 1983-90
  • A.35 Leading suppliers to Japan of women's and girls' cotton trousers, bib & brace overall breeches and shorts, 1983-90